Research Only Cosmetic & Skin

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5

also known as: Eyeseryl, Ac-βAla-His-Ser-His, Ac-bAla-His-Ser-His

Eyeseryl — the anti-puffiness eye peptide. A β-alanine-containing acetyl-tetrapeptide claimed to reduce capillary permeability and inhibit glycation-driven cross-linking; low absolute concentrations (0.01 % active) but convincing before/after in manufacturer studies.

A synthetic tetrapeptide containing a non-proteinogenic β-alanine (Ac-β-Ala-His-Ser-His), developed by Lipotec (now Lubrizol) as Eyeseryl® and awarded the New Technology Award at the 2005 Health & Beauty America Conference. Manufacturer-sponsored in-vivo study in 20 female volunteers using a cream formulated to deliver 0.01 % active peptide (from a 10 % Eyeseryl solution) twice daily to the periocular area reported ≥30 % reduction in puffiness in 70 % of subjects at day 15 and 95 % at day 60. Proposed dual mechanism: reduction of vascular permeability (limiting interstitial fluid accumulation) and inhibition of non-enzymatic glycation of dermal proteins. Cosmetic ingredient; not FDA-approved for any medical use.

Mechanism of action

Proposed dual action on the two principal drivers of visible under-eye puffiness: (1) reduction of microvascular capillary permeability, limiting fluid accumulation in the periocular interstitial compartment — possibly via angiotensin-converting-enzyme (ACE) inhibition, consistent with histidine-rich peptides in that pharmacologic class; (2) inhibition of non-enzymatic glycation of collagen and elastin, which limits cross-link accumulation and preserves skin elasticity around the eye. Manufacturer in-vitro and in-vivo data support both mechanisms at low concentrations (~0.01 %). Independent mechanistic replication is limited; most published efficacy evidence is manufacturer-sponsored.

Primary uses

Topical cosmetic formulations for periocular puffiness and under-eye bags
Anti-glycation formulations

Typical dosing

1–10 % (finished formulation, as supplied Eyeseryl solution) twice daily (topical)

Cosmetic concentrations. Supplied solution typically delivers ~0.01 % active peptide at 10 % formulation use level.

Regulatory status

Cosmetic ingredient; not a drug. INCI name: Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5.

References

[manufacturer] Lipotec / Lubrizol. "Eyeseryl® (Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5) technical data sheet and clinical study brief."
[review] Errante F, Ledwoń P, Latajka R, Rovero P, Papini AM. "Cosmeceutical peptides in the framework of sustainable wellness economy." Front Chem, 2020;8:572923.
[review] Ferreira MS, Magalhães MC, Sousa-Lobo JM, Almeida IF. "Trending anti-aging peptides." Cosmetics, 2020;7(4):91.

Related peptides

Argireline

A cosmetic-industry hexapeptide marketed as "topical Botox" — reduces muscle contraction signaling at the neuromuscular junction; modest but documented effects on expression-line depth.

Matrixyl

A palmitoylated pentapeptide derived from a collagen-I breakdown fragment (KTTKS) — widely used in cosmetic topicals with clinical data supporting modest reductions in fine-line depth over 12 weeks.

Pal-GHK

The palmitoylated form of the GHK tripeptide (distinct from GHK-Cu) — widely used as a cosmetic ingredient in combination with Matrixyl (Matrixyl 3000 is Pal-GHK + Pal-KTTKS) for fine-line reduction.

Disclaimer

This entry is for educational purposes only and does not constitute medical advice. Dosing information reflects published regulatory or research data and is not a recommendation. Many compounds described here are not approved for human use in the United States. Consult a licensed medical professional before considering any peptide therapy.