Research Only Cosmetic & Skin

Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12

also known as: Biopeptide EL, Pal-VGVAPG, Pal-Val-Gly-Val-Ala-Pro-Gly, Elastin spring-fragment peptide

Biopeptide EL — a palmitoyl-VGVAPG elastin "spring fragment" peptide. The VGVAPG sequence is chemotactic for fibroblasts and binds the elastin receptor complex (GLB1 / cathepsin-A / NEU-1); cosmetic firmness claims rest mostly on manufacturer data.

A synthetic lipopeptide consisting of palmitic acid conjugated to Val-Gly-Val-Ala-Pro-Gly — the "spring fragment" of elastin, a six-residue motif repeated six times in the native human tropoelastin and released during elastin proteolytic turnover. The free VGVAPG motif is a known ligand of the elastin receptor complex (ERC: a heterotrimer of GLB1/elastin-binding-protein, cathepsin-A, and NEU-1) and is chemotactic for fibroblasts and monocytes. Sederma (Croda International) conjugated palmitic acid to the hexapeptide to create a skin-penetrating topical and marketed it as Biopeptide EL™. Manufacturer clinical data (10-volunteer open study, twice-daily 4 % application, one month) reported 33 % firmness and 20 % tone improvement; not independently replicated. Cosmetic ingredient only.

Mechanism of action

The VGVAPG motif is released from elastin by elastases and matrix metalloproteinases during aging and photoaging. Free VGVAPG binds the elastin receptor complex (ERC) — a non-integrin heterotrimer composed of the elastin-binding protein (splice variant of β-galactosidase, GLB1), cathepsin-A, and neuraminidase-1 (NEU-1) — triggering ERK1/2 MAP-kinase signalling. Downstream effects in fibroblasts include chemotaxis, upregulation of MMP-1 (elastase activity) and, per manufacturer claims, stimulation of tropoelastin and collagen synthesis. The palmitoyl tail provides the lipophilicity required for stratum corneum partitioning. Cosmetic claims for firmness and tone rest primarily on manufacturer data; the underlying ERC signalling is well-characterised in elastin biology literature.

Primary uses

Topical cosmetic anti-aging formulations (firmness / tone)

Typical dosing

3–4 % (finished formulation, as supplied solution) twice daily (topical)

Cosmetic concentrations. Manufacturer in-house clinical study used 4 % twice-daily application.

Regulatory status

Cosmetic ingredient; not a drug. INCI name: Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12 (CIR-reviewed 2018). Note: two possible sequences are registered under the INCI "Hexapeptide-12" name; the biologically characterised one is VGVAPG.

References

[manufacturer] Sederma (Croda International). "Biopeptide EL™ (Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12) technical data sheet."
[review] Johnson W Jr, Bergfeld WF, Belsito DV, et al. "Safety Assessment of Tripeptide-1, Hexapeptide-12, their metal salts and fatty acyl derivatives, and Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 as used in cosmetics." Int J Toxicol, 2018;37(Suppl 3):90S-102S (CIR review).
[pubmed] Senior RM, Griffin GL, Mecham RP. "Chemotactic activity of elastin-derived peptides." J Clin Invest, 1980;66(4):859-862 (VGVAPG chemotactic characterization).

Related peptides

Matrixyl

A palmitoylated pentapeptide derived from a collagen-I breakdown fragment (KTTKS) — widely used in cosmetic topicals with clinical data supporting modest reductions in fine-line depth over 12 weeks.

Pal-GHK

The palmitoylated form of the GHK tripeptide (distinct from GHK-Cu) — widely used as a cosmetic ingredient in combination with Matrixyl (Matrixyl 3000 is Pal-GHK + Pal-KTTKS) for fine-line reduction.

Rigin

A cosmetic tetrapeptide marketed as an anti-inflammatory "Matrixyl companion" — claimed to reduce IL-6 and dampen glycation-driven skin aging; co-formulated with Pal-KTTKS + Pal-GHK in Matrixyl 3000+Rigin products.

Disclaimer

This entry is for educational purposes only and does not constitute medical advice. Dosing information reflects published regulatory or research data and is not a recommendation. Many compounds described here are not approved for human use in the United States. Consult a licensed medical professional before considering any peptide therapy.