Research Only Cosmetic & Skin

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5

also known as: Syn-Coll, SYN-COLL, Pal-Lys-Val-Lys, Pal-KVK

Syn-Coll / Pal-KVK — a palmitoyl tripeptide modeled on the thrombospondin-1 motif that activates latent TGF-β. Mechanistically distinct from Matrixyl-family matrikines: activates a growth-factor signalling pathway rather than directly mimicking collagen fragments. Cosmetic ingredient only.

A synthetic lipopeptide (Palmitoyl-Lys-Val-Lys, CAS 623172-56-5) modeled on the KRFK motif of thrombospondin-1 (TSP-1) that is known to activate latent extracellular TGF-β in vivo; the simplified KVK tripeptide is claimed by the manufacturer to reproduce the TSP-1 activity in topical formulations. Originally developed by Pentapharm (subsequently DSM, now DSM-Firmenich / dsm-firmenich) and marketed as Syn®-Coll; INCI designation Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 (formerly Palmitoyl Tripeptide-3). Primary preclinical evidence comes from manufacturer-sponsored collagen-induction and wrinkle-reduction studies; independent replication is limited. Cosmetic ingredient only; no drug-development program.

Mechanism of action

Modeled on the Lys-Arg-Phe-Lys (KRFK) motif of thrombospondin-1 (TSP-1), a matricellular glycoprotein that activates latent TGF-β by inducing a conformational change in the LAP–LTBP–TGF-β complex. The simplified Pal-KVK structure is proposed by the manufacturer to reproduce the TSP-1 latent-TGF-β–activating activity; activated TGF-β then engages SMAD2/3-dependent fibroblast transcription, upregulating collagen I and III synthesis. In-vitro fibroblast assays from the manufacturer report a 2–3-fold increase in collagen production over baseline. This mechanism — growth-factor pathway activation rather than direct matrikine mimicry — distinguishes Syn-Coll from the Matrixyl and Rigin families. Independent mechanistic confirmation is limited.

Primary uses

Topical cosmetic anti-aging formulations (collagen stimulation / wrinkle reduction)

Typical dosing

2–5 % (finished formulation, as supplied solution) twice daily (topical)

Cosmetic concentrations. Supplied as water-soluble solution; typical recommended finished-product use level 2–5 %.

Regulatory status

Cosmetic ingredient; not a drug. INCI name: Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 (formerly Palmitoyl Tripeptide-3).

References

[manufacturer] DSM / dsm-firmenich. "Syn®-Coll (Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5) technical data sheet." CAS 623172-56-5. Formerly marketed by Pentapharm.
[pubmed] Murphy-Ullrich JE, Poczatek M. "Activation of latent TGF-beta by thrombospondin-1: mechanisms and physiology." Cytokine Growth Factor Rev, 2000;11(1-2):59-69 (TSP-1/TGF-β mechanistic basis).
[pubmed] Katayama K, et al. "A pentapeptide from type I procollagen promotes extracellular matrix production." J Biochem, 2010;147(1):61-69.

Related peptides

Matrixyl

A palmitoylated pentapeptide derived from a collagen-I breakdown fragment (KTTKS) — widely used in cosmetic topicals with clinical data supporting modest reductions in fine-line depth over 12 weeks.

Pal-GHK

The palmitoylated form of the GHK tripeptide (distinct from GHK-Cu) — widely used as a cosmetic ingredient in combination with Matrixyl (Matrixyl 3000 is Pal-GHK + Pal-KTTKS) for fine-line reduction.

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38

Sederma's Matrixyl Synthe'6 — a palmitoyl tripeptide (Pal-KMO2K) claimed to stimulate six dermal-matrix components (collagens I / III / IV, fibronectin, hyaluronic acid, laminin-5). Follow-on to Matrixyl and Matrixyl 3000; almost all efficacy data is manufacturer-generated.

Disclaimer

This entry is for educational purposes only and does not constitute medical advice. Dosing information reflects published regulatory or research data and is not a recommendation. Many compounds described here are not approved for human use in the United States. Consult a licensed medical professional before considering any peptide therapy.